July, 2022

What is an Amaro?

This broad category of spirits covers a range of styles and levels of sweet vs. bitter, with some of the best known examples produced by larger Italian brands such as Fernet-Branca, Campari and Aperol. The common thread is a bitterness (amaro is Italian for bitter), typically derived from roots and herbs. Originating in Europe as a monastic then homespun cure all, every family had their own recipe handed down over generations — a spoonful of grandma's elixir would cure a stomach ache, help ease a sore throat or put a coughing child to sleep. These folk remedies differed based on where they developed with each region contributing its local plants, fruits and herbs. In the 1800s, it was common to see amaro being sold as a “health tonic” in Italy and beyond. Not so much a magical elixir today as it was then, that characteristic bitterness does help encourage the production of bile to stimulate appetite and aid digestion. Bitterness is key. This link is the reason for the common positioning of these spirits as an aperitif (drink before eating) or digestif (drink after eating). Oftentimes the best way to enjoy an amaro is by utilizing its unique character as the foundation of an elevated cocktail.

*Victoria Island asparagus roots out in the field next to our distillery*

Why (Island) Amaro?

If some like it hot, some also definitely like it bitter. Count us among the bitter-loving questionably masochistic set when it comes to drinks.

At one point in time Victoria Island Farms was the largest asparagus grower in North America, sending our California produce to all corners of the world as it was prized for the rich flavor imparted by the black island soil. Over the years as the economics of the crop changed, Victoria Island eventually replaced its asparagus acres with other crops (which also created a vacancy in the facility we now use for the Sabbatical distillery). However, after the famous asparagus from the California Delta all but went extinct, we recently decided to bring back the local goodness by planting a small plot of Victoria Island asparagus once again.

From the beginning of Sabbatical, we knew we wanted to make a bitter spirit, the only question was when. As our farm made moves to revive the island’s famous crop in a return to our roots, we knew the time was now. As we researched the history of amaro and learned that among many many other ingredients, asparagus roots have their own tradition as a “secret” ingredient in the bitter spirit. So with the new roots in hand (the asparagus crop will first be ready for harvest in 2023), we developed a new expression to capture the flavors and history of the island; with the earthy bitterness of California asparagus root balanced by a bright slightly astringent character of orange peels from our farmhouse orchard, sweetened just a hint to bring out the best in all of the ingredients. Island Amaro is made with estate-grown asparagus root, orange peel and grains.

How to Amaro?

Lightly sweet and earthy with hints of candied citrus and bright pepper. Traditionally enjoyed chilled, best enjoyed in a cocktail or as a bookend to a meal as an aperitif/digestif. There are many ways to enjoy this unique spirit — we encourage you to start your own experiments, adjusting as you go to your own bitter desires! There’s no wrong way to amaro, but here are a few styles that we like right now…

Island Amaro tasting notes & musings from Distiller Jake

Nose: the corn shines through, balancing the earthy musk of the asparagus. Light vegital nose hints at its origins. Woody and earthy faint hints of root beer like aromas. light honey Sweetness in the nose.

Taste: immediate light sweetness tempered with earthy bitterness. Engages the whole palate. The bitterness continues on the tongue gently astringent and drying. Hints of Honey persist. Tastes like sunshine. A vegetable astringency lingers on the palate stimulating the appetite and the imagination. Earthy, straw, lemon pith, grapefruit, honey, corn.

Cocktail sipper of the moment: The Bitter Island Spritz — it’s like a soda pop for adults! Not overly sweet, but complex and engaging. Soda water adds space between the flavors allowing the contrasting profiles to bloom in balance. The minerality of the soda water is not lost, but pairs with the earthy roots of the asparagus and brings out dry complexity. Something to Sip & Savor, a beautiful companion to fruit platters or desserts.

A blonde amaro with farm roots… Has no artificial colors or flavors, made from real natural ingredients in the tradition of grappa based estate amaros of Europe, the base spirit is a light corn distillate made from our own island corn. Capturing the natural sweetness of the corn forms a base to layer farm grown roots and botanicals creating a complex balanced bitter. A light and refreshing flavor for the more mature palate, not cloyingly sweet.

Island amaro Lore… the old timers speak of the asparagus root’s ability to stimulate appetite and encourage digestion. It is said to enhance lucid dreaming and even allow one to fly in their dreams.